Unraveling the Secrets: Mastering Your Rigging for Salmon Trolling
Okay, let's be honest. There's something undeniably magical about the thought of a screaming reel, a rod bent double, and the heart-thumping fight of a powerful salmon. Whether you're chasing chrome bright Chinooks or acrobatic Coho, the thrill is real. But before you can even think about that moment, there's a whole world of preparation to dive into, and that's where rigging for salmon trolling comes into play. It's not just about tossing a line in the water; it's an art, a science, and frankly, a bit of an obsession for many of us.
Think of it like this: your rigging is the conversation you're having with the fish. Are you speaking their language? Are you presenting something irresistible? Or are you just mumbling? Getting this right can be the difference between a fish box full of memories and a long, quiet ride home. So, grab a coffee, and let's break down the essentials, piece by piece.
The Backbone: Your Main Line and Downrigger Setup
First things first, let's talk about what connects you to the whole operation. Your main line. Most folks troll with either monofilament or braided line. Mono is classic; it has some stretch, which can be forgiving on a strong run, and it's generally more abrasion resistant. Braid, on the other hand, has virtually no stretch, giving you incredible sensitivity to what's happening hundreds of feet below. It also cuts through water better, which can be an advantage when deploying lots of line. For most trolling setups, I'd suggest a 20-30lb main line. You want enough strength to handle a big fish, but not so heavy it creates too much drag in the water.
Now, for serious salmon trolling, especially in deeper waters, a downrigger is your best friend. These brilliant devices allow you to precisely control the depth of your lure. You'll attach your main line to a release clip on the downrigger wire, which then holds a heavy cannonball weight to get your gear down. When a fish strikes, the line "releases" from the clip, and you're fighting the fish directly on your rod. A snubber – a small piece of stretchy bungee material – is often used between the downrigger ball and the release clip. This helps absorb some of the shock when the line releases, reducing strain on your gear and preventing snap-offs. Believe me, you don't want to lose a good fish due to a preventable gear failure!
The Crucial Connection: Leader Material and Length
This is where things get really interesting, and often, hotly debated. Your leader is the invisible (or semi-invisible) link between your main line (or the release clip) and your lure. For salmon, fluorocarbon is generally king. Why? Because it has a refractive index very similar to water, making it incredibly hard for fish to see. It's also super abrasion resistant, which is a big plus when you're battling a toothy Chinook. Monofilament can work too, especially for Coho, but fluorocarbon often gives you that extra edge.
As for pound test, we're typically talking 20-50lb for leaders. This might sound heavy, but remember, salmon are powerful, and they'll test your gear. The trick is balancing strength with stealth. You wouldn't want to use a 50lb leader in crystal clear, calm water if the fish are finicky, but it's great for bigger fish or when visibility is low.
Leader length is absolutely critical and depends heavily on what you're running. This isn't a "one size fits all" situation. * For flashers: You'll typically run a shorter leader, anywhere from 24 to 72 inches. The flasher is designed to impart action to your lure, so you want the lure relatively close to benefit from that motion. If it's too long, your lure just kind of drags. * For dodgers: These usually require even shorter leaders, often 12-36 inches. A dodger has a slower, side-to-side "dodging" action, and you want your lure right behind it to catch that erratic movement. * For straight spoons or plugs (no attractor): This is when you can go with a much longer leader, sometimes 6-12 feet or more. The lure needs to generate its own action, and a longer leader allows it more freedom to do so naturally.
This really is an area where a few inches can make all the difference, so don't be afraid to experiment!
The Sizzle: Attractors – Flashers, Dodgers, and More
These are the disco balls of the salmon world, designed to grab attention and imitate the frantic movements of baitfish. They create flash, vibration, and commotion that draws salmon in from a distance.
- Flashers: These are typically elongated, spade-shaped pieces of plastic or metal that rotate as they're trolled. Brands like Hot Spot or Pro-Troll are household names. Their spinning motion creates a lot of flash and a distinct vibration that salmon can feel through their lateral line. They're fantastic for giving action to inert baits or hootchies. When rigging a flasher, make sure you use good quality swivels at both ends to prevent line twist – flashers love to twist!
- Dodgers: These have a more distinct side-to-side "dodging" or weaving motion. They create a different kind of disturbance and impart a slower, more erratic action to your lure. Dodgers are often favored when using bait or spoons that you want to present with a more subtle, injured-baitfish type of movement.
Rigging these attractors generally involves a main line to the front swivel, then a leader from the back swivel to your lure. You might also add a couple of beads between the flasher/dodger and the leader knot to act as a buffer and protect the knot.
The Main Event: Your Lure Choices
Now we get to the payoff – what the fish actually bites! The options here are vast, but let's cover the main contenders.
- Cut Bait (Herring, Anchovy): There's nothing quite like the real thing, right? Fresh or brined herring and anchovies are absolute salmon magnets. You'll rig these using a bait head (like an "A.J. Plug" or a "Rhys Davis"). These plastic heads impart a specific rotational action to the bait. The trick is to thread the bait onto the head and hook it perfectly so it spins with a tight, natural roll – think about how an injured baitfish would move. This often involves a tandem hook setup, with one hook in the body and another trailing loosely, ready to snag a short-striking fish.
- Spoons: These are metal lures designed to wobble, flutter, and flash like an injured baitfish. Kingfisher, Coho Killer, and Silver Horde are popular choices. They come in countless sizes and colors. Spoons are incredibly versatile; they can be trolled directly, behind a flasher, or behind a dodger.
- Plugs: These hard-bodied lures (like a Tomic or a Coyote) have a diving lip that gives them a distinct, often erratic, swimming action. Some even have internal rattles or scent chambers. Plugs are particularly effective for Chinook and can be trolled with or without an attractor, depending on their inherent action and the fish's mood.
- Hoochies (Squid Skirts): These soft plastic squid imitations are simple, effective, and relatively inexpensive. They're often rigged with tandem hooks and are almost always fished behind a flasher. The flasher gives the hoochie its enticing, darting motion, mimicking a fleeing squid. They come in every color imaginable, and specific color combinations can be absolute killers on certain days.
Putting It All Together: Common Rigs and When to Use Them
Let's talk about some tried-and-true combinations that you'll likely use frequently.
- The Classic Flasher/Hoochie Rig: This is probably one of the most popular and versatile setups. You've got your main line to the flasher, then a leader (usually 36-72 inches, but again, experiment!) to a tandem-hooked hoochie. The flasher provides the action and attraction, and the hoochie seals the deal. Great for both Coho and Chinook.
- Flasher/Spoon Rig: Similar to the hoochie setup, but with a spoon instead. Leader length might be a bit shorter or longer depending on the spoon's natural action. This is a killer combo for Chinooks, especially when they're feeding on larger bait.
- Dodger/Cut Bait Rig: For a slower, more methodical presentation, especially when salmon are a bit finicky or when targeting deeper fish. The dodger's slower wobble gives the cut bait a more natural, injured-baitfish presentation. Leader length here is typically quite short, 12-36 inches, to keep the bait close to that dodging action.
- Straight Spoon or Plug: Sometimes, less is more. If the fish are aggressive, or you're fishing in clearer water where an attractor might spook them, a straight spoon or plug trolled with a long leader (6-12 feet) can be incredibly effective. Let the lure do its own work!
The choice of rig often depends on the species you're targeting (Coho often prefer faster action, Chinooks sometimes slower), water clarity, depth, current, and simply what the fish are eating that day. Don't be afraid to run multiple rigs at different depths and with different presentations until you figure out what they want.
Pro Tips, Tricks, and Troubleshooting
- Knots, Knots, Knots! Your rigging is only as strong as its weakest link. Learn to tie strong, reliable knots like the Palomar, improved clinch, or snell knot for your hooks. Practice them until you can tie them in your sleep, and always moisten your knots before cinching them down to prevent line damage.
- Sharp Hooks Are Non-Negotiable: I can't stress this enough. A dull hook will cost you fish. Check your hooks often, and sharpen them regularly with a small file or hook sharpener. If they're too bent or rusty, replace them.
- Scent Is Your Friend: Salmon have an incredible sense of smell. Using a good quality scent on your lures, especially artificial ones, can make a huge difference. Anise, herring, shrimp, and garlic are all popular choices. You can get scent applicators or just rub it directly on the lure.
- Experimentation is Key: What worked yesterday might not work today. Don't be afraid to change colors, leader lengths, or even entire rigs if you're not getting bites. Pay attention to what's working for others around you, but also trust your gut.
- Watch Your Rod Tip: The action of your lure is crucial. Watch your rod tip. If it's bouncing erratically, your flasher might be spinning too fast or your bait is tumbling. A smooth, consistent pulse usually indicates good action.
- Maintenance: After every trip, rinse your gear with fresh water to remove salt. Check your lines for nicks and abrasions, especially your leaders. Replace them if they show any signs of wear.
The Reel Reward
Rigging for salmon trolling truly is a journey of learning and adaptation. There's no single "perfect" rig that works every time, everywhere. It's about understanding the components, knowing how they interact, and constantly refining your approach based on conditions and fish behavior.
But here's the best part: every hour you spend prepping, every knot you tie, every subtle adjustment you make – it all adds to the satisfaction when that rod finally loads up. It's not just about catching fish; it's about the entire process, the challenge, and the connection to the water. So, get out there, experiment, learn, and most importantly, enjoy the chase. Tight lines, my friend!